The fruits of the sea come to the desert.. The Scene: Mariscos means shellfish, and the shellfish are good here even though they do not naturally thrive in the landlocked desert Mexican state of Chihuahua. The etymology of this bustling little restaurant's name is complicated, but suffice it to say that the shellfish is indeed a component of the restaurant's cuisine. You'll find it and its soft-scaled relatives in nearly every dish: seafood cocktails, fish soup, fish Culichi style (in a green chile and cheese sauce), tender octopus in a flavorful stew, and ceviche. Someday they'll probably figure out some sort of fishy dessert, too, but in the meantime everything is inexpensive and scrupulously fresh. Mariscos Chihuahua docks at 3901 S. 6th Avenue, 1009 N.Grande Aveune, and 2902 E. 22nd Street.
If you order one thing: Try something new, like the spicy shrimp endiablados style.